Louisa Pinnacle Climbing

Pinnacle : Louisa, Matheran
Region : Matheran
Height : 90 feet.
Team : Saurabh, Jigar, Sushant, Rakshak, Priyanka
Date : 5th-April-2008

1. EQUIPMENTS REQUIRED

• 10mm rope(1 number)
• 30m 10mm rope(1 number)(if you have 100m its good for making “U”)
• 4 crabs for anchoring + 1 crab for each climber
• At least 1 descender, 2 will be good

2. LOCATION OF THE PINNACLE

It is located opposite to the Louisa Point on Matheran, approximately 150 feet away from the Louisa Point. From the base it is around 260 feet height. There is a rock hanging in between Matheran and Louisa Pinnacle (called CHOKE STONE1). From this CHOKE STONE1 the pinnacle height is around 60-70 feet. At a time maximum only three people can stand on this CHOKE STONE1.

3. ANCHORING POINTS AND BOLTS

• One big tree is there for anchoring 100m rope. (TREE)
• Bolt is available at the start of climbing (anchor 30m rope) (BASE BOLT)
• Two bolts are available at approximate distance of 20 feet(BOLT1, BOLT2)
• At summit three pegs and a crab is available for anchor (TOP ANCHOR)

4. ROPE MANAGEMENT

• Anchor 100m rope at TREE and finally at BASE BOLT
• Anchor 30m rope at BASE BOLT
• Pass 30m rope from BOLT1 and BOLT2
• Anchor 30m rope at TOP ANCHOR

Remarks: Every one at CHOKE STONE1 and on the TOP should be anchored to BASE BOLT and TOP ANCHOR respectively because very less area to stand and because of the strong wind and chances of free fall of around 200 to 280 feet.

5. CLIMBING ROUTE

At the base there is a patch on your right (all the directions are when you are facing pinnacle) at around 2 feet height where one can stand and look for other holds(called MASTER PATCH). Mainly there are 3 difficult moves. (There are other moves but one can manage those moves)

• Called FIRST MOVE or MASTER MOVE

- Stand on the MASTER PATCH at around 6.5 feet height there is a hold on left side. You can hold it with both the hands and pull your body and put your right leg on the ledge at the height of around 5 feet. On this ledge you can stand.
- After moving your right leg put your right hand on the grip at around 2 feet height and move your left leg at the same ledge where your left leg is there. Relax and take rest at this point.
- There is a slight move of your body from right to left in this move.

• SECOND MOVE

- There is a grip at around 5.5 feet height on the right hand side and find one grip on your left hand side. Hold this grip and pull yourself and come to ledge from here very simple moves are there.
- After this ledge there is a bolt fixed.
- After this point need to move to your right and there is scree on the rock
- Another bolt is fixed after around another 20 feet simple scree climbing

• THIRD or FINAL MOVE

This is kind of overhang. There is a good grip on your right hand side and don’t remember the left hand side grip. Pull your body and put your right leg on the other rock and move ahead to the SUMMIT J

6. TIMINGS

• 10 mins to reach the base from Matheran for each person.
• 20-25 mins to climb from the base for one person.
• 2-3 mins to rappel down from the SUMMIT
• 10 mins from base to Matheran

7. SUPPORT TEAM AND CAMERA LOCATION

Support team can sit on the Matheran Louisa Point. From this point you can see climb after fist ledge. BEWARE OF MONKEYS. At Louisa Point monkey are very brave and they will snatch your bags from your hand so be very careful of monkeys.
Camera man can sit at Louisa Point or there is a small tree on the right hand side (while facing towards Louisa Pinnacle).

8. DIFFICULTIES FACED/RISK(S)

There is no space for luggage. Actually there is no space even to stand properly at choke stone. If you are carrying a small sack then make sure that even that sack if anchored because if it falls down the only way to get it back is rappel down the pinnacle and then climb up with the sack.

- Jigar (April'08)